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Ignition switch


engineless with 2 wheels
If you don't want to spend out on a complete lockset this is a work around.

Have had to repair this a couple of times now so i thought i might as well take pictures of the repair.

The white wire, which is the main feed from the battery to all the electrical systems on the bike corrodes over time and comes away from the ignition.

The symptoms of this occurring is - you will turn the key on and get no electrics, just like a main 30amp fuse failure.

1 - remove the headlamp, disconnect all the wires in the headlamp bowl and then remove the bowl. This will allow you access to the ignition barrel that kawasaki don't wont you tampering with.

2 - you will see a plastic cap (circled in blue) at the bottom of the ignition barrel. This has a torx style tamper proof screw (which has a raised piece if metal in the centre of the screw), however if you smash a small screwdriver into its head it will remove the little bobble that stops a screwdriver being inserted. Unscrew this to remove the plastic cap.

3 - There's another tamper proof screw holding the ignition switch to the body of the barrel, do the same again and then pull out the ignition switch.

4 - Looking at the switch you will see the white wire has come away, from the switch. This is what needs to be soldered back onto the switch.

5 - so clean up the wire and the old solder and connection area.

6 - resolder the white wire back into position

7 - check you handy work with a multimeter on the 200 ohm setting. At the connector end put a probe on the white wire and another probe on the brown wire. Turn the black switch 1 click (just like if you had a key in the ignition from 'off to on'), look at the position in the 2 pictures of the black T piece in relation to the grey body as its moved slightly.
You should get a reading on your multimeter indicating youve repaired the switch

8 - You might want to cover the connections with grease or silicon, its upto you as this will help protect them from further corrosion. Put it all back together and voila ;)


edit - 2 more pics added of the tamper proof screw (with the raised bobble removed) holding the switch in place which is also the same holding the covering cap in place


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biker, times two
All those soldering places look quite near to each other. It must be tricky not to solder two terminals together :smiley_ba